Darwin was established as a mining town in 1874. The population has fluctuated between a boom of several thousand and today’s small number of about 35. It is located at approximately 4800’ elevation and is essentially a private residential town. For brief periods, the town was a “real town” with a school, stores, and even hotels. But not now - and perhaps never again will it regain that status. Today, there are no services in Darwin: no gas station, no grocery store, no hotel or lodging whatsoever. A clear sign just off Highway 190 announces this fact, but tourists often overlook the sign and wander into town expecting to find gas or a place to get a cool drink or rest in a shady park. Those tourists will be disappointed, however. The majority of current residents are retired and prefer quiet, private lifestyles, and the town does not see many visitors today.
There are no public parks or public property for visitors to utilize inside the Darwin city limits. Only a few poorly paved roads exist. Occasional Jeep and other ORV tours meander through town to connect to the network of BLM roads and lands adjacent to Darwin. But curtains remain drawn, and that seems to be the way Darwin residents like it.
In 2011, a documentary film was completed and began screening on both the US and international film festival circuits. This has led to additional publicity for the very small town and its residents. Much of this publicity is viewed as intrusion into residents’ lives.
There are no public parks or public property for visitors to utilize inside the Darwin city limits. Only a few poorly paved roads exist. Occasional Jeep and other ORV tours meander through town to connect to the network of BLM roads and lands adjacent to Darwin. But curtains remain drawn, and that seems to be the way Darwin residents like it.
In 2011, a documentary film was completed and began screening on both the US and international film festival circuits. This has led to additional publicity for the very small town and its residents. Much of this publicity is viewed as intrusion into residents’ lives.
A Brief History
When gold was discovered in the area in the 1840s, more white settlers began exploring the area. Spanish and Mexican interests held original claims in the nearby Coso mining district until the 1860s.
From 1850 to 1860, Dr. Erasmus Darwin French led prospecting parties through the area. So, in December 1874, when the Coso Mining District was formally organized, the town was named Darwin after Dr. French.
Early businessmen took interest in Darwin and moved quickly to monopolize water and transportation. By 1875, a water works and toll road were in place. Mining for lead and silver was not possible without these established services.
Darwin boomed to a population of between 1,000-3,500 in 1877, but no records exist to verify that estimate. Soon after, as other area mines, such as Bodie, struck big, and as mines in the vicinity played out, Darwin began its decline.
With no economic reason to maintain services, the local residents essentially became responsible for their water. Of course, there was no electricity or phone service to Darwin until the 1940s (phone) and 1960s (electricity).
From 1874 up to the present day, fire hazard has always been a concern and has resulted in repeated destruction and often mass exodous by residents with no insurance. Time and time again, families and businesses were left with nothing and simply moved on from Darwin to start over elsewhere.
Perhaps Darwin’s modern heyday was from 1926-1937, when the Eichbaum toll road went through Darwin to Stovepipe Wells and Darwin was known as “the Western Gateway to Death Valley.”
As mining technology advanced, Darwin was revisited several times more from the 1920s through the 1960s and various companies invested in attempts to extract lead, tungsten and other minerals from the Darwin area. The population fluctuated accordingly, and a school was maintained for the resident children until ? year.
In 1944, the Navy acquired land for the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Station, and this included the spring supplying Darwin its life-giving water. Access was granted, and this arrangement continues to this day, whereby Darwin resident volunteers perform maintenance with the permission of the Navy on a narrow utility easement. Over the years, a variety of people, including the Civilian Conservation Corps, a local Boy Scout troop, and community members have contributed desperately needed labor and skills to keep the water flowing.
Today, the local mine is privately owned and not currently in operation. “No Trespassing” signs posted along the mine’s perimeter advise curious passerbys to stay off the property. The Darwin Community Services District (DCSD) attempts to maintain the water line, but the town is still vulnerable to chronic water shortages and even total depletion, as happened for a time in 1998. The DCSD put a moratorium on water hookups, and there can never be additional meters added to the system. As it currently exists, if all meters today were active, the system would fail to provide adequate water for residents. Therefore, no businesses are allowed in Darwin, either.
A museum operated for a time in Darwin, but today the collection has moved to Lone Pine and is maintained by the New Coso Heritage Society. There are no structures on national, state or local historic registers, and visitors can only stand on the public, dusty streets and attempt to capture images and imagine what life might have been like in previous times.
Residents pay county taxes, but there is no formal municipal government. Emergency services are nonexistent and gas, groceries and healthcare must be obtained in the nearest town, 40 miles away. Today’s residents range in age from 88 down to 15, with most citizens in retirement ages. The local post office is slated for closure soon, and with the lack of jobs available in sparsely populated Inyo County, the future of the town depends on the choices of the few remaining residents and their decisions to remain in or leave this isolated desert town.
There are many historical resources regarding Darwin. A great place to start is the Eastern Sierra Museum in Independence, the Inyo County seat. A large part of information in this brief article came from references housed there. Thanks to all the historians, journalists, and interested parties who took time to record and research Darwin's wonderful history.
- Contributed by Velma Hall, March 10, 2012
From 1850 to 1860, Dr. Erasmus Darwin French led prospecting parties through the area. So, in December 1874, when the Coso Mining District was formally organized, the town was named Darwin after Dr. French.
Early businessmen took interest in Darwin and moved quickly to monopolize water and transportation. By 1875, a water works and toll road were in place. Mining for lead and silver was not possible without these established services.
Darwin boomed to a population of between 1,000-3,500 in 1877, but no records exist to verify that estimate. Soon after, as other area mines, such as Bodie, struck big, and as mines in the vicinity played out, Darwin began its decline.
With no economic reason to maintain services, the local residents essentially became responsible for their water. Of course, there was no electricity or phone service to Darwin until the 1940s (phone) and 1960s (electricity).
From 1874 up to the present day, fire hazard has always been a concern and has resulted in repeated destruction and often mass exodous by residents with no insurance. Time and time again, families and businesses were left with nothing and simply moved on from Darwin to start over elsewhere.
Perhaps Darwin’s modern heyday was from 1926-1937, when the Eichbaum toll road went through Darwin to Stovepipe Wells and Darwin was known as “the Western Gateway to Death Valley.”
As mining technology advanced, Darwin was revisited several times more from the 1920s through the 1960s and various companies invested in attempts to extract lead, tungsten and other minerals from the Darwin area. The population fluctuated accordingly, and a school was maintained for the resident children until ? year.
In 1944, the Navy acquired land for the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Station, and this included the spring supplying Darwin its life-giving water. Access was granted, and this arrangement continues to this day, whereby Darwin resident volunteers perform maintenance with the permission of the Navy on a narrow utility easement. Over the years, a variety of people, including the Civilian Conservation Corps, a local Boy Scout troop, and community members have contributed desperately needed labor and skills to keep the water flowing.
Today, the local mine is privately owned and not currently in operation. “No Trespassing” signs posted along the mine’s perimeter advise curious passerbys to stay off the property. The Darwin Community Services District (DCSD) attempts to maintain the water line, but the town is still vulnerable to chronic water shortages and even total depletion, as happened for a time in 1998. The DCSD put a moratorium on water hookups, and there can never be additional meters added to the system. As it currently exists, if all meters today were active, the system would fail to provide adequate water for residents. Therefore, no businesses are allowed in Darwin, either.
A museum operated for a time in Darwin, but today the collection has moved to Lone Pine and is maintained by the New Coso Heritage Society. There are no structures on national, state or local historic registers, and visitors can only stand on the public, dusty streets and attempt to capture images and imagine what life might have been like in previous times.
Residents pay county taxes, but there is no formal municipal government. Emergency services are nonexistent and gas, groceries and healthcare must be obtained in the nearest town, 40 miles away. Today’s residents range in age from 88 down to 15, with most citizens in retirement ages. The local post office is slated for closure soon, and with the lack of jobs available in sparsely populated Inyo County, the future of the town depends on the choices of the few remaining residents and their decisions to remain in or leave this isolated desert town.
There are many historical resources regarding Darwin. A great place to start is the Eastern Sierra Museum in Independence, the Inyo County seat. A large part of information in this brief article came from references housed there. Thanks to all the historians, journalists, and interested parties who took time to record and research Darwin's wonderful history.
- Contributed by Velma Hall, March 10, 2012
